Assisi, Umbria, Italy
Hidden and majestic, the Campanino property encompasses some of central Italy's anomalous and most precious vineyards. On the fringe of the medieval village of Assisi about 900 meters above sea level, it is a still, lonely place where the possibility of growing grapes is pushed to the limit.
The soils in this Central Appeninne mountain range are mostly hard, dense clay above ancient deposits of granite and quartz. Tiny scattered plots of Sangiovese, Colorino, 'Gamay' (Umbrian Grenache) and Trebbiano Rosa are led phenolically with the help of biodynamic treatments applied in strict adherence with the lunar cycle, a practice of great importance to achieve ripeness in this extreme climate.
Unlike the majority of producers we represent, there is no long-lived tradition or family ascribed to these special wines. The vision and determination of wine-sage Danilo Marcucci has allowed for the project here to take shape in collaboration with the Baroni Campanino, but ultimately the stark territory dictates the identity of the entire production.
Oftentimes wines from steep mountain slopes are made in facilities somewhere closer to ground level where labor and equipment are more easily accessible. Not the Campanino. In a small hut perched just above their oldest plot of Sangiovese, the crisp Appeninne air safeguards the freshness of these wines year-round. For the fermentations, grapes are de-stemmed and go into concrete tanks or glass demijohns. Depending on the particular site, old barrels (100+ years old) of varying sizes are employed and wines rest through the following Spring. No sulfur is used at any point.
Very few bottles illustrate such a clear-as-day sense of place as those of the Campanino, a marvel given how young the vineyards are. Woodsy, medicinally herbaceous, driven by earth tones but full of luminous deep fruit signatures, there is simply nothing else in Italy like them.
- El Rancho
Bianco Campanino 2016
Rosato Campanino 2016
Rosso Campanino 2015
photo courtesy of SelectioNaturel